Through Lindau to the Innsbruck Christmas Market

Gasthof Erkheimer Landhaus, Erkheim, Germany

After another wonderful buffet breakfast, we say goodbye to Erkheimer Landhaus and take a different route, than planned, to the Innsbruck area.  Melissa checks the weather each morning and is worried about driving through the mountainous area south of Munich.  They were dumped on last night and they will continue to get snow all day.  We will head south on the A96 towards Lindau and then east on the A14 to Innsbruck. 

Frozen Sunflowers

As we drive out of Erkheim, we pass a friendly horse and frozen sunflowers.

The roads are clear and we stop to visit the market in Lindau only to find out their Christmas Market is only held on the weekends.  However, we decide to stretch our legs and take a walk through this lovely town.  The setting is on Lake Konstance.  Wandering the main pedestrian zone we come upon the town's beautiful Rathaus and many other beautiful buildings. 

The town hall, Rathaus, was built in 1422 originally Gothic and rebuilt in 1576 with a beautiful staircase in Renaissance style. The rear was lush historisierend decorated in the 19th century with painting, which represents the history of Lindauer.

Clock on Front of Rathaus

The façade on the pedestrian street, at the Bismarckplatz is also adorned by a large staircase (1587). 

Lindau Rathaus

 

There are lovely buildings and windows throughout the pedestrian zone of this lovely town.

Driving through eastern Austria is beautiful.  Unfortunately, our views are often inside of a tunnel.  We eventually arrive in Innsbruck.  Since our car is of German decent, our GPS will only give us directions to the city and not specific addresses in Austria.  We are a bit challenged at finding the city center.  Once there, we bundle up (it's about 17 degrees) and head to the three markets that are all in the same area of the city, Allstadt, and are within walking distance.

Engraved Wood Ornament

View of the Altstadt, The Old City, with the Goldenes Dachl (Golden Dome) on the Left

Christkindlmarkt on the River

The Innsbruck markets do not have many booths selling the typical German/Austrian decorations.  It is more of a craftsman type market.  The beautiful lights depicting Austrian crystal add a lot to the ambiance of this market.

Innsbruck Market

Lights Over Market Depicting a Crystal Chandelier

 

Along with the traditional Christmas market in Innsbruck, you can stroll through the Marchengasse, the Fairy Tale Road. On prominent places of the old town roads you will see against the dark night sky impressive scenes from renowned fairy tales.

 

Unique fairy tale pictures, pictured by life-sized figures, from different well known fairy tales were on display on facades, windows and different corners of the old town of Innsbruck. They were illuminated and their silhouettes against the night sky were beautiful. There were 23 pictures of fairy tales which fascinated the visitors, young and old, in the old town of Innsbruck. Here are only a few of the fairy tale groups that were on display: "Pinocchio," "The Valiant Little Tailor", "Frog King", "Max and Moritz", "Rumplestiltskin", "Shock-headed Peter," "Sleeping Beauty," "Snow White and the 7 dwarfs , "" Little red riding hood "," Cinderella ", and many more.

Fairy Tale Scenes on Building Facades

Once our toes got cold, we found our way back to the autobahn and drove to the hilltop town of Tulfes, up in the hills above Hall Tyrol.  We had reservations for two pensions tonight depending on the weather conditions.  Unterammergau was still getting heavy snow and the only way to get there was to drive over the Fernpass.  We did not feel comfortable driving in the dark on the pass and possibly over black ice, so we opted for our second choice, Tulfes, just outside of Hall of Tyrol.

After a short hill drive, we find Gasthof Neuwirt on the main street of the town next to a beautiful church.  Once again, we were going to dine in the restaurant downstairs.  However, it was full of smoke and didn't appeal to us.  We had a few snacks and then I went for my evening walk.  This town, high up in Tyrol, is small and quaint.  I walk past a small, roadside chapel and see the snow covered alps in the distance.  It is so quiet.  Down below is the town of Hall Tyrol twinkling in the dark. 

Frozen Rothenburg to Lovely Ulm Christmas Market

Peering out of our window in the morning, we see the newly fallen snow on the streets and rooftops.  We have a hearty buffet breakfast in the pine laden attic breakfast room.  Our breakfast has a large variety of cheese and meats from their market downstairs.  We return to the market and stores to buy a few gifts.  The town is beautiful with the fresh snow.  

Laser Cut Wood Ornament

We are now driving south on the autobahn to the Ulm Christmas Market.  Since we were delayed one day, we have to adjust our itinerary and bypass the Stuttgart and Esslingen markets.  The limbs of the fir trees along the autobahn are drooping from the weight of the snow and the aspens have a layer of ice.  It truly is a winter wonderland scene. 

Finding Ulm Stadtmitte, where the market is located, is easy with the GPS.  As we enter the market, there is an animated Steif Bear display in the children's area.  This market has beautifully decorated stalls with each row having a theme that is displayed along the roof's eves.

Steif Bear Display

The stalls are in front and along the side the Cathedral.



Ulm Muenster is the tallest church in the world and is the best example of Gothic church architecture in Germany.  At 161 meters, Ulm's Cathedral has the tallest spire in the world.  Construction on the Cathedral began in 1377.  The spire was added in 1890 and towers over this market making it a perfect backdrop.  On the outer edges of the market are modern day buildings. 

There is a nice variety of goods.  The typical German decorations such as smokers, spinners and ornaments are available along with specialty craftsman goods.  In front of the Cathedral is a nativity with live animals.  We indulge in a mug of gluhwein while shopping for German speculese cookie molds.  

Nativity Scene with Live Animals

Melissa at Market Entrance

After enough gluhwein to warm us up and a few special purchases, we venture out back onto the autobahn to brave the constantly changing weather.  The snow is now accumulating and there are patches of ice on the road.  What I love about German drivers (and there are many things), is that they assess the situation and they all slow down and take it easy.  They don't zoom on by with the attitude that these road conditions are no big deal.  It takes us a while to get to our Gasthof, Erkheimer Landhaus, in Erkheim.  I like to stay in small towns in a country setting on the outskirts of the larger cities.  Thank goodness for our GPS.  She is a life saver. 

Gasthof Erkheimer Landhaus is your typical lodging with a restaurant downstairs.  The owner is the chef and we are looking forward to his culinary talents.  Unfortunately, upon check in, we are told the restaurant is closed for a private Christmas party.  We get directions for a restaurant in the next town and head back out onto the icy roads. 

At Brauerei-Gasthof Laupheimer in Westerheim we had a wonderful schnitzel meal (of course) with starters of soup and a glass of wine. 

 

We dined in the back room because they were also catering a Christmas party.  We passed up the traditional Christmas plate of duck.  It was nice to sit and relax after a lot of driving. 

Back at the Gasthof, our room is large and cozy.  We discover we have black out blinds.  Wish we could really sleep in.

Melissa relaxes while I return to the streets of this cute town for a walk in the snow.  With my new Keen boots, I hear the crunching of the snow beneath my feet and enjoy the cold wind on my face.  I pass simple, but beautiful lights around and in the homes of this quaint town.  

Charlie Brown trees in the yards with a string of lights, lit up stars or an arch of candles in the windows decorate these homes.  So simple but so beautiful under the moonlit sky.  It's so still and quiet and when the church bells ring at the eleventh hour I decide I better return to the room.  Guten Nacht.

London to Rothenburg ob der Tauber Christmas Market

Very Modern Tree in Terminal 5

Tree in Front of Harrods

After a very large, plentiful buffet at the Radisson, we board the bus and arrive back at the infamous Terminal 5.  We only had to check-in our luggage and get through security.  While waiting for our flight, we make a few purchases at Harrods.  The lines were manageable and our flight on British Air went well.  Steve had arranged with AutoEurope to change our rental car pick up to Munich.  EuropCar was fast and we hit the autobahn in a large, but compact, automatic, diesel Opel with a built-in GPS.  Yeah, we're off to Rothenburg in a snow storm.  Melissa has now graduated from passenger on the autobahn to a driver on the autobahn.  We hit patches of heavy snow here and there but we were able to get to Rothenburg by late afternoon.

Pension Elke on the Left

Pension Elke is located within the walls of the town so we park the car at a parkplatz down the street.  Slipping and sliding on the ice covered cobblestone streets, we eventually arrive at our pension.  We have a lovely, large room on the second floor.  This pension is in a 400 year old restored building.  The owners have a small market on the street level. 

Enjoying First Mug of Gluhwein

After enjoying our first mug of gluhwein at the closing of the Christmas market, we have our first Schnitzel dinner. 

Nightwatchman Tour

Following dinner, we take an 8 p.m. Night Watchman's tour of the town.  We follow him through the streets in the snow and listen to his stories and tales of Rothenburg thru the Ages.  From the town's origin as a stronghold at the crossroads of important trade routes, to its growth into a wealthy and important town within the Empire, to its time of glory and its downfall during the 30 Year[+]s War.  He's always fun and fascinating to listen to.  

Love the simple, basic Christmas Trees

With very large snowflakes starting to fall and cover our hats, we make our way back to our pension. Truly a winter wonderland evening.  For me, it doesn't get better than this.  It will be interesting to drive on the snow packed roads tomorrow.  Guten Nacht!

Stuck at Heathrow--Snow Storm Closes Frankfurt Airport

After very little sleep on the flight, we get on an airport bus to transfer from the international terminal to Terminal 5, the infamous European regional flight terminal.  Just inside the doors to Terminal 5, we find ourselves in a line that seems to have no purpose or end.  This line is to merely enter the terminal.  We overhear conversations that indicate flights all over Europe are being cancelled due to snow.  A British Airways rep tells us that Frankfurt might still be open and to stay in line.  After our line along the wall turns the corner, we see an endless sea of people in a queue that wraps around and around.  With exhaustion looming and heavy backpacks, we slowly move through this line merely to get on an escalator that will put us into yet another queue to get through security.  Two hours later we emerge from the lines and into Terminal 5.  

 

A Familiar & Welcome Sign in Terminal 5

Viewing the departure screen indicates that our flight into Frankfurt is the only flight that does not have a gate assigned to it.  Another British Airways rep says to check back in 50 minutes and gives us an airport voucher for 10 pounds that we can spend on food.  Fifty minutes later, we are told that the Frankfurt airport, along with many others in Europe, is closed due to snow.  We are to retrieve our luggage and go out of the secured area we just spent two hours in line entering and return to the British Airways desk to rebook our flight.  Yes, another long line.  This slow moving line will result not only in a rebooked flight but with local hotel reservations, bus tickets and meal vouchers.  British Airways will pay for it all because it was not our fault our flight was cancelled.  Wow, this never would have happened in the States. 

Smiling After a Good Night's Sleep

Obviously, all of the people in line in front of us are getting the earlier flights for the next day into Frankfurt.  Our guys back home were busy on the phone with American and British Air trying to get us flights tomorrow.  The earlier flights into Frankfurt were full so we decided to fly into Munich.  An hour and a half later, with tickets in hand and a hotel reservation for the Radisson, we found another long line for bus 26 to the hotel.  Okay, we've had enough of this.  We're not standing in any more lines lugging all of our luggage onto a bus.  We're taking a taxi.  We're whisked around the streets, on the other side of the road to our lovely hotel.  After a quick check in, we get a first floor room and head off to the restaurant for our comped dinner buffet.  On the way there, we pass a long line of British Air passengers checking in.  Yes--we avoided another line. 

The dinner buffet and room was wonderful.  Our flight tomorrow is at 9:45 a.m. and our alarms are set for 6 a.m.  We are going to try our best to avoid tomorrow's check-in crowds. 

On Our Way

After weeks of planning and researching, we are off to LAX for the first leg of our trip into Frankfurt.  We will be on a 6:45 p.m. non-stop flight on American arriving at London Heathrow at 1 p.m.  After a four hour layover, we will continue on British Airways into Frankfurt.  We will pick up a car and drive to Oestrich-Winkel, located on the Rhine and about 30km away . Our hotel room will overlook vineyards.

The current and predicted weather for Germany is lots of snow and cold.  As a result, I have returned to REI and Marshalls to purchase additional cold weather clothes and a larger suitcase.  We not only need room for the clothes we are taking but for the goodies we will be bringing home.  Since we can check in one piece of luggage for free, I am putting my packed, carry-on size bag into a larger sized luggage and checking it in.  For the trip home, I'll be able to fill the larger piece with purchases, check it in, and still be able to take my carry-on piece on the plane home. However, since we are flying home on Air Berlin, I need to make sure my carry-on luggage is the correct size.  European airlines have smaller luggage limits. 

The check-in and security lines at LAX are short and fast.  Since I'm writing this after our arrival in Germany, you will soon see the short lines were a foreshadowing of what was to come. This is the first time I have flown without a layover in the States.  Layovers on this trip are in Europe.  Could prove to be interesting.